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Tuesday, December 02, 2008

the beads and the beadmakers



I want to tell you about the Bead Girls, and the beads. They were the reason for going to Ethiopia that I knew about. There turned out to be so many other reasons too, but if it had only been about the beads and the beadmakers, it would have been more than enough. There are six regular beadmakers now, and some others who have come and gone in the last couple of years. Until now, all of the boys who have started the program have quit. Seems it's seen as a "girl" job, and they want to do something more "manly". Ridiculous, I think, but I have to keep reminding myself of the huge cultural differences we have. There is one young man, Abera, who is a wonderful landscape gardener with an artistic soul. He tried his hand at beads while I was there, and shows promise and interest. So we'll see how it goes with him. Pictured above is the core group of the Project Mercy Bead Room, from top left: Asnakech, Hana, Alfya, (Me), Denbele, and lower left to right, Bzunesh and Tirunesh. It took me several days to get their names right, and to pronounce them even close to correctly. They had it pretty easy with my name, and Rick's name usually turned to "Rrreeek" as it rolled out of an Ethiopian mouth.

Four of the Girls are full time beadmakers now, and two of them are in classes in the morning, and make beads in the afternoon. There are several vocational programs within the Project Mercy compound. Education is taken very seriously, and there are difficult exams at the eighth and tenth grade levels. Some pass and keep going to school, and sometimes on to university. Others end school at eighth or tenth grade and learn a skill like beadmaking, gardening, cooking, sewing, wood or metal work. Marta is always looking for new ways of teaching people to make a good living for themselves. It's part of her master plan to work holistically within the community, and it's a plan that keeps growing and expanding.

And here is Abera, with Rick. Abera also acted as a guide for us outside the compound, since his family lives in the area, and he knows just about everyone. He came to Project Mercy twelve years ago, carried by his father because he was so sick from malnutrition and malaria that he was nearly dead. In fact, his sister had died the day before, causing his father to "give" Abera to Marta and Deme, so that they might be able to save his life. He's been there ever since, and I know his was a life very much worth saving.



When we first visited the Bead Room (I wanted to call it the Studio, because they really are artists), Marta came along to translate, and we were all a little bit shy at first. There was a small pile of beads on the table, all dark and somber looking. I realized that was partially because the supply of glass was almost used up, and there were no bright colors left. I brought in some of the glass we had carried along, and jumped right in, adding white to everything, essentially adding "light" to the beads. We played with color and dots and stringer, so I could gauge where they were in their skill levels. It became clear pretty quickly that the last year they'd spent more or less on their own had given them time to practice, and to get pretty good. They were ready for me. We also realized that they understood me when I explained what I was doing, and it wasn't really necessary for Marta to interpret for us.

So the first several days of our stay there was spent mostly in the Bead Room, and we all quickly became comfortable friends, chatting, laughing, making beads like we'd known each other for years. By the time the rest of the Cunningham's group arrived, about ten days later, there were growing piles of beads on the table, bright and beautiful, and more skillful by the day. Rick was also a great teacher, helping with some of the more precise things. He's a Virgo after all...



Another beadmaker, and darling human, Alex Boyd, came with the big group. The girls knew him from last year, and had an easy reconnection. I backed away a little bit at that point, feeling like I'd about exhausted what I had to teach them for now. Alex came in with fresh techniques, and there was another quantum leap in the quality of the beads being made. It was so exciting to see them learning everything that was shown to them, and able to do almost all of it immediately.



Heart beads were started there as a "go with" for the bracelets a year or two ago. Several high schools in the Denver area order them to be worn in place of corsages and boutonnieres for prom. Nice idea, yes? I asked the girls to make a few hearts just for me, using the new tricks they'd learned. I'll be giving a few as gifts, and have several more to offer on my website. They're the first of the emerging new styles we'll see more and more of. The "Kim-Rick-Alex Influence" is there, but they're really making things in their own way. Beautiful.



I think ideally, it would be good to have a teacher visit three or four times a year, to keep them challenged and motivated. That may not happen, but I'm confident that the bead program is well under way, and stands a very good chance of becoming a self-sustaining and profitable little business. I also think that in another two to three years they'll be able to make all their own beads for the HOPE Bracelets, eliminating the need for us to solicit donations of beads here. It's a day we all look forward to. And then... who knows? There will be something else to work on. There will always be something else. For now, I'm really encouraged by what I saw, and honored to be a small part of the progress.

Monday, December 01, 2008

home



The first bird goes off like an alarm clock at about 5AM each morning, just as the sun begins to turn the sky from dense black to cool gray. Within minutes a chorus of other birds adds to the performance, in varying levels of harmony and discord. They're beyond exotic, sometimes other-worldly, ranging from melodious trilling warbles, to screeching catlike screams, to something like a cross between a crow and an insane duck, to another that sounds like the stereotypical "Tookie Tookie Bird" from the old George Of The Jungle cartoon. I lie in bed for a while, listening, until the sun offers enough light to find my clothes by, and then dress and go outside to see if I can identify the source of any of the strange calls. A day that begins like this has a very good chance of being filled with magic...

Every day we spent in Ethiopia was indeed filled with magic and wonder and discovery. I'll tell as much as I can, but I also know that you won't really know it or feel it until you go there yourself. Go there. I can't imagine anyone being disappointed in Africa, which is a funny thing for me to say, considering it was only two years ago that I loudly (and stupidly) proclaimed that I never wanted to go to Africa. It was nowhere on my list of places to see, and I feared that if I did accidentally go there, it would crush me, it would break my heart to a point where I would no longer be able to function, or be able to help. I was already doing my work for the HOPE Bracelet Project, and I really believed that my job began and ended here at home, and that there was no need to see for myself what my work was doing for people almost half the world away. What I didn't know then was that if my heart did happen to get broken, it would only be broken open, and then it would be filled in ways I could never have guessed.

The stories are still composting. It's too soon to tell them all. I'll do it little by little, and I'm so grateful that the internet just wouldn't work for me there, and that there never seemed to be spare "time to write" as it was happening. It would have been a very dull day-to-day account of things, and it deserves a better telling than that...

We're home now, and finding our way back to normal. But both "home" and "normal" will need to be redefined. Three weeks is not a very long time, but it feels like we've been through some sort of time warp. You could tell me I'd been gone one day and I'd believe you, or six months, and I'd believe that too. Three weeks was enough, and still, we would have stayed longer if we could have. We're already planning our next trip, and wanting to stay a month or more the next time we go. Dropping back in from Ethiopian Reality to American Christmastime is a jolt and a comfort and a confusing tangle of contradictions. Much of it seems ridiculous, excessive, embarrassing even, but then again, the light and festivity and Best Intentions of the season are something to help ease us through this re-entry phase. We saw so much need, and so much love. We saw hope and despair, trust and fear, beauty and tragedy. We saw a life and a world that we'd only read about, and couldn't begin to understand until we saw it for ourselves. Now we're only just beginning. I tried to go without expectations, but I know I had at least one. I thought I'd feel like I was on a different planet. Every day, as I walked outside, I reminded myself, I'm in Africa. And as absolutely different as it was from anything I'd ever imagined or experienced, I was always aware that I was standing there "on the world". The World. It remained the same world, round and solid and home. When we traveled back to the US, Washington DC felt like home, and then Denver felt like home, and I kept thinking how good it was to be home. Back in Taos yesterday evening, home was welcoming and pretty and clean and bigger than I'd remembered. And at the same time, remembering Africa, and the solidness of it beneath my dusty feet, I understood that home has expanded. No matter where I am, I'm still standing on The World. How will I ever narrow it down to one small place again? So much remains to be seen.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

home...almost


Hi everybody. I'm so sorry to have been so absent here theses last three weeks. Internet "issues" were just too great, and it was all I could do to get about three short emails off to friends and family while we were away. Today we wake up in Denver, snow falling softly outside the window, after a long, comfortable sleep in a bed like a cloud. This is nothing like the reality we experienced in Africa. It's about as opposite as opposite can be. And still, we had the most wonderful experience of our lives there, and in fact, might have stayed longer if it would have been possible. Certainly we'll go back.

We'll drive home today after breakfast, the last leg of a very long journey. The storm doesn't look too threatening, and we have 4 wheel drive and good tires. I'll need to spend a few days decompressing and unpacking, and then I'll start sorting pictures and little by little, I'll begin to tell the story. I think you'll enjoy it, and hope you'll want to find a way to join in somehow too.

The photo here is my Bead Girls. I call them "mine", although they're very much their own, and everyone who meets them or works with them loves them. They've become amazing beadmakers, and we all learned a lot from each other in the time that we had. I brought home a handful of heart beads they made especially for me. My influence is there, but the style is all their own. I'm so proud! I need to sell these and send the money back to them in Ethiopia, so watch my website for that brief opportunity. At the little price of $36, they'll make some really meaningful holiday gifts for those you love best.

That's all for now. I'll be back in a few days!

Saturday, November 08, 2008

leaving dc



So far, so good. We're in DC, waiting for our flight to Rome and then on to Addis Ababa. Last night the First Pick Party was fun, fun, fun. I always seem to have the good fortune to sit next to the coolest person in the room. This time is was Yohannes Gebregeorgis, who is the founder of Ethiopia Reads. He has started libraries all over Ethiopia, and is doing wonderful work in improving the education of Ethiopia kids. He's up for the CNN Heroes award, and stands to win $100,000 to further his work. Please vote for him! You can vote more than once. I'm sitting here for my last half hour at the airport, voting over and over again. Heck - I paid $2.99 for internet access. Might as well make good use of it!







OK! Time to go!!!

Friday, November 07, 2008

on our way

We're leaving this morning for Denver, and tomorrow for Ethiopia! Wow - here it is. I'm so excited I can hardly sit still. I'll see you back here when I can. Till then... Carry on!
xoxoxo Kim

~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the Group Gratitude Journal!
(What's this about? Read the Gratitude Alert post!)

Please make your entries in the "comments" area below.



Today I am grateful for...

The opportunity to go on this trip to Ethiopia!

My friend Karena, who is helping big time with the house-sitting.

All the adventures we haven't even imagined yet.

Your turn!

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

yes we did!


I am beyond happy this morning. Over-the-moon, happy-dancing, singing-with-the-birds happy. I feel like it's the day after Christmas and I got everything I wished for. For the first time in a very long time, I'm enormously proud of this country. We've stepped up and done the work to make a change that will benefit the entire world. Hooray for us, US, U.S. We did a good thing in electing Obama. There's still a lot of work to do, but at least now we have a place to start from. Moving forward, you and me, us and them, we're all in it together. Come on. Let's go!

Today Rick and I will finish packing. We're off to explore a bigger world, to share who we are and what we have. It feels important to be doing this at this particular point in time. The world is changing, and we're helping. Feels good. Very good.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
P.S.
I forgot to mention that we had a terrific Election Night Party at Deborah & Thomas's house. I brought a big pot of Obama Beans (chili), and Obamaroni (mac & cheese from scratch). We also thought ahead and had champagne chilled... we knew we'd be celebrating!!! The cheesy-mac was a huge hit. The recipe is based on Patti LaBelle's recipe, but I think I added even more cheese than it called for. After all it was celebration food!



~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the Group Gratitude Journal!
(What's this about? Read the Gratitude Alert post!)

Please make your entries in the "comments" area below.



Today I am grateful for...

Barack Obama.

The voters who stood up and said YES!

You. All of you. I can't see you, but I know you're there.

Your turn!

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

one word today...


~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the Group Gratitude Journal!
(What's this about? Read the Gratitude Alert post!)

Please make your entries in the "comments" area below.



Today I am grateful for...


Democracy.

All the volunteers out there helping people vote.

Tonight's election party with our friends.

Your turn!

Monday, November 03, 2008

back to yes

I seem to have crossed back over to the Land Of Yes... that place where nothing is really different, but somehow it's all just working better. The PayPal glitch was worked out, and I want to thank the buyer for getting right on the problem and clearing it up. Turns out, she hadn't canceled the payment at all. The bank did, the stinkers. As we know, they can pretty much do what they want...

Anyway - all those little sticky bits of business that were hanging me up a few days ago are cleaned up now. My new website and shopping cart are purring along, and all the stacking, sorting, and packing we need to do is actually getting done. I'm organized and calm and nearly ready to roll. Of course that calm is only on the surface of the pond... the deeper waters are a lot more turbulent and murky. I know this only because I'm still not sleeping. I even resorted to taking an actual sleeping pill last night, and I still woke up at 1AM. OK - I surrender. By the time we get on that plane, I'll be ready for a nice long nap.

OK - back to the packing...



~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the Group Gratitude Journal!
(What's this about? Read the Gratitude Alert post!)

Please make your entries in the "comments" area below.






Today I am grateful for...

Large suitcases.

Rick, who does all the grocery shopping.

Rick again, who baked cherry chocolate brownies the other day, and blueberry muffins this morning. Mmmmmm......


Your turn!

Saturday, November 01, 2008

halloween in taos

I'm still struggling with my website today. But the domain redirection should be all sorted out in about 24 hours... I hope! Still stacking, sorting, and packing the lovely piles of crap, but at least I'm making progress. Yesterday was kind of overwhelming (is it possible to be just "whelmed"?). It was a good thing that we decided to go to town for a little Halloween fun. We came home feeling much more balanced, and it was a beautiful evening, so we sat outside later and watched the tiny new moon peep through the clouds and slip behind the hills. Deep breath... there we go...

Today we're back at it. Rick is out canvassing for Obama. He's a Canvass Captain. I'm very proud. As we say here in New Mexico, Obamanos!!! I'm here taking care of business. We all have our jobs to do. So while I get back to work, here's a little entertainment for you. Halloween in Taos is always a lot of fun! Bees and Beadists For Obama!



~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the Group Gratitude Journal!
(What's this about? Read the Gratitude Alert post!)

Please make your entries in the "comments" area below.






Today I am grateful for...

Halloween...

And then Dia de los Muertos.

The silly fun of costumes.

Your turn!